“A large drop of sun lingered on the horizon and then dripped over and was gone, and the sky was brilliant over the spot where it had gone, and a torn cloud, like a bloody rag, hung over the spot of its going. And dusk crept over the sky from the eastern horizon, and darkness crept over the land from the east.”
John Steinbeck, “The Grapes of Wrath”
Last Sunday, mid-afternoon, there was a pause between storms; the sky became a tapestry of cloud types. On a whim, Doug (the husband) decided Abby (the dog) wanted to go to the beach. They asked if I wanted to come along. Sure, why not? Plus, he added, there would be “big waves.”
In more scientific terms, a High Surf Advisory is in effect. Over the years “big waves” became our family’s preferred term. Its origin goes back 40 years when my 4-year-old niece asked as we headed to Zuma Beach, “Aunt Sue, will they be showing big waves at the beach today?”
Oh … I do hope “they” were on that one particular day! We still wonder to whom she was referring with her use of the word “they.” One can only imagine.
Doug, the dog and I made beach-fall just in time. We were immediately taken in by the last rays of daylight. Entranced by the exquisite color show spreading across the horizon, time stood still, for just a moment, until the sun set. Shades of ever-changing orange, pink, yellow, blue, lavender and purple filled the evening sky. Storm clouds, moving from the east, quickly dropped the curtain on the show. A wet dog and her people, warmed and dried by the car’s heater, watched the first star appear.
And yes – they were showing big waves, the type to which surfers and non-surfers are lured. Ocean waves are caused by the wind. Their height is influenced by the speed of the wind and the distance over which the wind is in contact with the ocean surface. In other words, a perfect scenario for big waves is a strong intensity caused by a substantial length of time the wind has blown over a given area, and a large distance of open water (called fetch) over which the wind has blown. Wintertime in Southern California often has conditions for that “perfect storm.”
If all went as forecast, a steady rain fell throughout Wednesday night and will continue this morning (Thursday). A gradual clearing is expected as the storm dissipates. Tomorrow, Friday, is the first day of many, leading into next week, which will be clear and warmer. Strong Santa Ana winds are predicted for Monday or Tuesday, depending on the shifting pressure systems. Dry off the umbrella, for now, and hold onto your hats!
“Don’t forget: beautiful sunsets need cloudy skies.”
― Paulo Coelho, Brazilian author
Sue Kilpatrick is a Crescenta Valley resident and Official Skywarn Spotter for the National Weather Service. Reach her at suelkilpatrick@gmail.com.