By Charly SHELTON

Bourbon Steak has been one of my favorite restaurants since it opened in March 2014. It is the favored restaurant for an elegant dinner, a special occasion celebration or even a quick bite during happy hour. And while a dinner here may be felt sorely in the pocket book, the lounge’s happy hour selections are quite affordable and deliver no less spectacular renditions of old favorites. Whereas the proper restaurant has truffle mac, steaks and lobster pot pie, the lounge menu is geared more towards shareables and finger foods. Their renowned bourbon bacon burger is a much-talked about standby and the rest of the revolving menu, refreshed seasonally, doesn’t disappoint either. But now, as school begins and weather cools, the autumnal spices replace the vivid citrus spark of summer flavors. Gone are the days of lemongrass, white wines and tropical fruits, and here comes the cumin, cinnamon and allspice.  This begins now, however delicately, in Bourbon Steak’s lounge.

Not all of the summer fun is gone yet. The pickled green papaya-topped Thai beef skewers and the ice-cold oysters still linger for a bit of distinct summery flavor, but the charred yet herbal lamb lollipop chop with chimichurri sauce and lavender mint and the “Bruce Lee” Wings, loaded with cumin and crispy fried with just the right amount of spice, foretell of cooler days to come. Out of everything, my favorite has to be the Thai beef skewers. The thick grilled chunks of beef are spiced with exotic flavors that make the salty, savory skewer perfectly balanced with the sweet and tangy pickled green papaya. It’s like beef jerky that isn’t dehydrated. I know that sounds weird, but it totally works. Those kinds of dishes, the ones that surprise the diner and make a bricolage combination of opposing ideas work well together, are always the ones remembered most fondly and intensely.

With a new lounge menu comes a new cocktail menu. Their most famous and long-lasting cocktail is the Lucky Lindy, and I can see why. Vodka, Aperol, lime, honey and kaffir lime come together in a great cocktail that impresses. But I’ve had it many times over the last couple of years and have grown used to it. Same goes for the Gold Rush – bourbon, honey and lemon – and the Ginger Rogers – gin, mint, ginger syrup, lemon and True Roots Ginger Beer, made by lead bartender Rayland Fuentes’ own brewing company. Despite that, I am in need of something new to keep the amazed sparkle alive in my eyes. Enter the Ward 8.

This has been my favorite cocktail since my wife discovered it in an old cocktail recipe book when we were 22. The recipe book had to be from the ’50s or ’60s, and the recipe dates back to the late 1890s. It was popular when my parents were born and hasn’t been in fashion since. I’ve never been able to order it at a bar before, so that it was served at Bourbon Steak was amazing, and it tastes great, too. For a fairly simple cocktail – bourbon, grenadine, lemon and orange juice – it is a complex flavor. The ingredients mix when shaken but never actually combine. It opens up as you drink it, with layers of sweet orange, fruity cherry and sharp bourbon succeeding through each sip. And it’s dangerous because it’s so easy to drink that, before you know it, you’ve had three or four of them. This is the drink I needed to stand out from the menu and really bring the pizazz to the experience.

Whether your tastes call for sweet, salty, summery, autumnal or anything else, Bourbon Steak in Glendale at the Americana at Brand has something for you. Hit the lounge next time you’re out for an early dinner and you won’t regret it. I’ll be back at Bourbon Steak soon, hungry for more.

  Charly Shelton