By Charly SHELTON

Descanso Gardens is our own Central Park in the Crescenta Valley. It’s a meeting place, a quiet retreat, a tourist attraction and, now, a brunch hot spot. Whether it’s after a morning stroll through the gardens or before heading out, Maple at Descanso Gardens offers an expansive brunch that hits the spot, fueling diners for whatever the day brings.

The relatively new restaurant is only open for brunch, and it does it well. With a slew of brunch classics and a distinctive California twist, there is something familiar, something surprising and something fresh on the menu for new and returning visitors every time they visit.

The obvious favorite for me was the first thing my eyes found on the menu – fried chicken n’ beignets. The classic fried chicken and waffles appeal ushers you in and then gives way to the lighter, fluffier beignet, which, for those who have never tried one, is like a French version of a doughnut dusted in powdered sugar and honey. Add to that three pieces of golden brown buttermilk fried chicken and herbed honey and drench the whole thing in Vermont maple syrup, and you have one happy diner.

The spring menu has just debuted in the last month and it perfectly captures the season. The flavors of spring come from fresh produce and, when dining at Descanso Gardens, one expects the freshest. The new spring menu offerings are vegetable and fruit forward, like the green goddess salad with pickled little gem, mixed greens, edamame, sugar peas, golden pea shoots, cucumber ribbons, watermelon radish and herb vinaigrette. Or on the lighter side, there is the fresh berry toast with whipped cream cheese, house made artisan jam and blueberry boule. And while it all sounds great, brunch for me always includes maple syrup so the maple pancakes were a hit with me. The familiar flavors of buttermilk pancakes, bananas and brown sugar spiced walnuts are met with original tastes of whiskey maple syrup and candied pork belly to create something a step above the normal short stack.

I think what really sold me was the bread. It’s not uncommon to receive a basket of bread for the table, and Maple was no different. But instead of the limp French bread of other restaurants, Maple brings out grilled rustic bread on a natural wood block serving tray, complimented with butter and house made jam. I’m not sure why that stuck with me so much; I think it because that was exactly what I expected from dining in Descanso Gardens. Rustic grilled bread. Natural wood. Fresh berry jam. It’s so perfectly matched with the dark wood and bright windows of the craftsman-style buildings of Descanso and exactly what I thought I’d get, subconsciously or otherwise, when I came to the restaurant.

This is my new favorite brunch spot in the Crescenta Valley. I highly recommend it and I, myself, will be returning soon, hungry for more.

Maple at Descanso Gardens is only open Saturday and Sunday from 9 a.m. to 2 p.m., so reservations are recommended. More info and reservation booker can be found on its website, MapleAtDescanso.com.

  Charly Shelton