By Susan JAMES

Fantasy collides with reality and the past challenges an array of imagined futures in the 25th annual exhibition of Oscar-nominated costumes now on display at the Fashion Institute of Design and Merchandising (FIDM). Open Tuesday through Saturday, 10 a.m. to 5 p.m., and running through April 22, the exhibition is free to the public. Over 100 costumes from 23 feature films released in 2016 are on display and each exhibit invites visitors to explore the worlds created by the marriage of costume and story.

This year’s Oscar-nominated costumes feature two very different takes on World War II. Joanna Johnston’s pared down period look for actress Marion Cotillard in “Allied” features a slinky but subtle evening gown and an ecru satin negligee, perfect concealment for a double agent hiding in plain sight.  Oscar-nominated costume designer Consolata Boyle has a completely different take on the same period with the razzle-dazzle of her dramatic pieces for Meryl Streep in “Florence Foster Jenkins.” It was the flare of a Spanish diva that inspired Boyle’s flamboyant black “Flamenco” gown worn with starburst headdress. The elaborate white gown and train, worn with feathered angel’s wings, encapsulates the fantasy world of beautiful music that Florence was trying to create.

In a far more restrained presentation for a far more fantastical story are Colleen Atwood’s Oscar-nominated costumes for “Fantastic Beasts and Where to Find Them.” No one looking at the sober suit worn by Eddie Redmayne’s Newt Scamander with its undistinguished palette of black and tan or the baggy grey and black wool outfit worn by Katherine Waterston’s Tina would guess that those little twigs in their hands were actually magic wands that wield enormous power. Also monotonic but rich in detail are Jacqueline West’s costumes for “Live By Night.” West did detailed research on the period in which the film takes place, the Roaring ’20s. She used photographs and other memorabilia to give her the visual flavor of the time. Sharen Davis, costume designer for “Fences,” goes with an individual artist to inspire her. Maybe Monet for this film; maybe Rembrandt for that. For “Fences,” it seems to have been Grant Wood’s “American Gothic.”

Among the most exuberant sections in the exhibition are the costumes that might be labeled “Hurray for Hollywood.” Mary Zophres’ brilliantly colored costumes for the much-nominated “La La Land” stand out like exhibits in a candy store. Four dresses on display, two of them worn by Emma Stone’s Mia, have simple designs with varying details like fringe or skirt flares but their bold, primary colors make them pop. Across the way, Zophres’ designs for “Hail Caesar!” conjure up Hollywood’s Golden Age. George Clooney’s Roman centurion costume pairs nicely with Scarlett Johansson’s green spangled mermaid outfit and Tilda Swinton’s Hedda Hopper hat and I-mean-business suit.

For costume enthusiasts interested in the wild and wonderful, Alexandra Byrne’s costumes for “Doctor Strange,” complete with super cloak, and Colleen Atwood’s closet of fantasy – the silver and gold gowns for “The Huntsman: Winter’s War,” the peculiar apparel for “Miss Peregrine’s Home for Peculiar Children” and Atwood’s incredibly detailed delights for “Alice Through the Looking Glass” – should fill the bill. Don’t miss the late 18th-century costumes by Irish designer Eimer Ni Mhaoldomhnaigh (that’s Ee-mer nee-VALE-down-ig, if you need to ask) created for the Jane Austen homage, “Love & Friendship.” The period lace, hand embroidery and opulent fabrics are worth several close looks.

When Hollywood plays dress-up, FIDM offers a showcase. See you at the movies!

  susan james